Compass Cay: Exumas Enigma

Compass Cay Marina in the Exumas. Think Flo's on steroids.

After spending several days in the Exumas Land and Sea Park, we turned S/V Pandion south towards Compass Cay. Having seen the island in past years, we were looking forward to revisiting the area and dropping by the marina for a cold beer, which has been a gathering spot for cruising sailors.

Hundreds of boat names have decorated the walls over the years.

Taking our dinghy Newt into the marina basin, we saw big mega yachts wedged in to every space available. It took us a while to find a place to land Newt. These were big boats...100 ft. plus yachts with jet skis and center console powerboats that served as their tenders.

Yachts at Compass Cay Marina.

To add to the show, marina guests were encouraged to swim with large nurse sharks in the shallow waters adjacent to the main dock. Bonefish were darting in between the circling sharks and swimmers.

Nurse shark swims between marina guests at Compass Cay. 

The "pet" sharks of Compass Cay each have names. 

This scene reminded us of the shark feeding frenzy at Bullock's Harbor caused by local fishermen tossing fish heads off the dock. At Compass Cay, however, people were in the water with them. I've heard many people describe nurse sharks as "safe" and, in fact, they are not considered to be aggressive animals.

But...they are sharks. Top predators with sharp teeth. And records show that nurse sharks do bite people. They rank among the top six species of sharks considered to be dangerous, primarily due to the continuing perception among divers and swimmers that they are not a danger. Like putting a black bear in a child's petting zoo, it's just not a good idea.

So we found Newt among the big yachts, and pulled out of Compass Cay Marina, thinking about how times have changed. Clearly everyone there was having a great time, but this was not the Exumas experience that we were seeking.

Brenda explores a lagoon with crystal clear waters on Compass Cay.

Later that same afternoon, we discovered a beautiful lagoon in a secluded cove less than a mile from the marina. Then we hiked to the top of Compass Peal, providing a 360 degree view from the 100-ft. bluff.

We were back in the Exumas that we love.

Brenda and Gary enjoying the views from the peak of Compass Peal.