Trip to Town: Hard Bargain on Moore's Island

Homes along Bay Drive in the settlement of Hard Bargain on Moore's Island.

After going over two weeks without seeing anyone in the Bight of Abaco (yes, it's that remote), we decided it was time to return to civilization and visit the settlement of Hard Bargain on Moore's Island. Plus, we needed to get some supplies for Pandion's galley.

We found the people of Hard Bargain to be very welcoming and friendly, and the small town beautiful and well kept.

We met Victoria in her grocery shop, and were able to resupply with potatoes, onions, cabbage, apples, cheese, and some canned goods. She pointed the way to K.C.'s restaurant, where we had a great seafood lunch (fresh snapper, peas and rice, fried plantains, coleslaw) while watching the view over the clear teal waters of the Bight. 

Brenda and I then spent some time exploring Hard Bargain, meeting another Brenda, who was born and raised on Moore's Island. We visited her shop, and walked away with a great find: frozen  beef hotdogs.

We also met Jonathan, who runs the local fuel dock, and topped off our dinghy fuel. Jonathan's daughter lives in Miami, and he takes the ferry from Freeport to see her a few times each year.

Queen conch shells piled up along the shore near Hard Bargain. 

Tourism is practically non-existent on Moore's Island. It appears that fishing, lobster and conch harvest are the mainstays of their economy. We saw piles of conch shells, trawlers tied up at the dock, and a number of local fishers using small craft to harvest snapper and other local fish, using "fish pots" (weighted cages baited with frozen conch or fish).

Local fisherman from Hard Bargain, with one of his fish pots. The grappling hook is used to snag the pot and haul it up.

It was a great day, followed by taking our dinghy Newt up a series of mangrove lined tidal creeks south of Hard Bargain, casting top lures for snapper. Not much luck. Maybe we need to use a fish pot!