Passage to Conception Island

View from the bluffs on Conception Island National Park. 

Catching a west wind, we sailed Pandion southeast about 40 nautical miles from New Bight on Cat Island to Conception Island. Designated a Bahamas National Park and managed by the Bahamas National Trust, Conception is a pristine, uninhabited wildlife refuge.

During our offshore passage in depths of over 3,000 feet, we caught sight of our first whales! A pod of six False Killer whales crossed our path, moving very fast and breaching frequently. A fantastic thing to see.

Most of my experience with these whales have been with mass stranding events in South Florida, so being able to watch them at sea was unforgettable. We were not fast enough with the camera to catch them.

We hiked along the east shore, following a marked foot path to Babby Bay. 

Conception Island is a beautiful place, with stunning views of the Atlantic Ocean from the high bluffs along the east shoreline.

The island provides nesting grounds for White-tailed tropicbirds. While there, we spotted sea turtles, sharks, ospreys, owls, spotted eagle rays, and schools of pelagic fish.

Brenda onboard our dinghy, as we explored the tidal creeks. 

We spent a day hiking the eastern shore, following a path marked by fellow explorers, using flotsam washed ashore. The trail markers were unique.

Trail head marker, using debris washed ashore.
In this case, a boot and a helmet. 

Ropes helped the climb up a few steep inclines.

Spectacular views met us at every turn. 

We were not alone, however. It appears that the word has gotten out about Conception Island. We spent a week there, and at times there were more than 20 sailboats anchored in the Bay.

At one point, a mega yacht joined the fleet of cruising sailboats.  Within an hour of dropping anchor, the yacht launched multiple wave runners and a few hydrofoil boards. The anchorage suddenly went from a quiet, serene setting, to a racetrack for the yacht's water toys buzzing around the Bay.

Wave runners and hydrofoils launched from a mega yacht turn the anchorage
into something unexpected for a National Park.

Fortunately the big yacht didn't stay long, and we felt as if everyone there breathed a collective sigh of relief when they cruised out of the anchorage. In our experience, sailors generally are respectful of the need to protect areas like Conception Island.

Unfortunately, we have seen a number of occasions when large motor yachts (often crewed professionally) disregard local rules established to help sustain wildlife and habitats. The BNT lacks the resources for enforcement, so there are no repercussions.

Buoy with telemetry washed ashore.

 

The hike to Babby Bay culminated in a vast stretch of beach, with a shallow bay dotted with reefs.
We didn't see a soul on this day long hike.

The weather settled to light breezes for most of our time at Conception,
allowing us to kayak and snorkel along the beaches and bluffs.  

All in all, a fantastic experience. As we sailed west towards Long Island, we were joined by a flight of dozens of chirping tropicbirds. Within an hour, Brenda spotted a lone False Killer whale surfing on the big seas. Truly an unforgettable adventure.